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Pilgrimage sites in Germany – Birnau

History
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View of the basilica at Birnau on Lake Constance

By the end of the 9th century, Birnau already had a pilgrimage church, namely a Marian chapel. In 1227, nuns were active in Birnau. In 1241, the Abbey of Salem took over the care of the chapel in Birnau and in 1307, the pilgrimage activities. This makes Birnau one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in Germany. In 1384, Urban VI, Pope from 1378-1389, born Bartolomeo Prignano (1318-1389), decreed that Birnau belonged to the Cistercian abbey. A new chapel was then built to replace the existing, small chapel. In 1420, a miraculous image, to which miracles were later attributed, was placed in the chapel.

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Ceiling fresco in the Basilica at Birnau

The current church was built to replace an old pilgrimage church, which stood a few kilometres away. During the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648), the building was destroyed and set on fire, but the Chapel of Our Lady remained untouched. About a century later, another, current church was realised.

ceiling frescoes in Birnau Basilica
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Painting in the Basilica at Birnau of the St. Bernard's Altar with Bernard in the white habit and Mary with Child

The pilgrimage church was built between 1746 and 1750. The patron was Abbot Anselm II (Franz Meinrad Schwab, 1713–1778) of Salem Abbey. Preparatory work began in 1746. The architect was the Austrian Peter Thumb (1681–1766). The foundation stone was laid on 11 June 1747. The frescoes are by the German court Rococo painter Gottfried Bernhard Göz, also written as Goetz, Götz, and Goez (1708–1774). The Rococo altars and statues are by the Austrian sculptor Josef Anton Feuchtmayer (1696–1770).

On 20 September 1750, the statue of grace arrived at the church. Feuchtmayer supplied Stations of the Cross to the church until 1753.

During the Second World War (1939-1945), the church and monastery were closed from 1941 until 1945.

In 1971, the church was elevated to basilica status. This was done by Paul VI, pope during the period 1963-1978, born Giovanni Battista Enrico Antonio Maria Montini (1897-1978).

Pilgrimage site
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Basilica of Birnau

The basilica is a Baroque church with a bell tower 51 metres high. The interior of the basilica is 46 metres long, 14 metres wide and 17 metres high.

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Statue of Mary above the entrance to the basilica at Birnau

In the basilica, the miraculous image, measuring 80 centimetres in height, stands above the high altar. The statue dates from around 1420 and its maker is unknown. The miraculous image depicts a late Gothic, seated, crowned Mary with Child. A crescent moon is visible at the foot of the throne. This is a symbol from the apocalypse of the evangelist John. Mary holds an apple in her right hand, referencing Eve's sin in the Garden of Eden. The background of the miraculous image shows clouds and putti, symbolising the imagination of Mary's Assumption. Mary is crowned, and this adornment dates from 1733.

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high altar in the basilica at Birnau

In the church, in addition to the main altar, a further 6 side altars have been built. Furthermore, there are many frescoes to be seen. One altar is dedicated to Saint Bernard and on it, Mary is also depicted, giving milk from her breast. Other depictions in the church include those of Joseph, the parents of John the Baptist, Saint Basius, Saint Erasmus and John the Evangelist.

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clock in the form of a lunar clock in Birnau Basilica

The moon clock present in the basilica is an 18th-century timepiece.

The basilica is a beloved place to hold a wedding or commemorate a significant event.

There is a plan to utilise the space beneath the basilica and funds are being sought for this. The same applies to new paving in the square in front of the basilica.

The basilica, dedicated to Mary, is open daily and is one of the most visited buildings on Lake Constance.

Next to the basilica is a monastery shop, where devotional items are for sale.

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Ceiling fresco in the Basilica at Birnau
ACCESSIBILITY

Birnau is situated on the Baroque Route, adjacent to the northern shore of Lake Constance, directly on the B31 road, between Nussdorf and Uhldingen-Mühlhofen in the state of Baden-Württemberg.

Address: Birnau-Maurach 5, 88690 Uhldingen-Mühlhofen.

Current information can be found at www.birnau.de.

Experience
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View of Lake Constance and the Swiss Alps from Birnau

As we approach Lake Constance, with the snow-capped Swiss mountain peaks in the distance, a long-awaited visit becomes a reality. Soon it will be time to greet Maria in the pilgrimage site of Birnau.

The basilica’s tower welcomes visitors from a great distance. The inviting tower looms ever larger as the distance between you and it shrinks.

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Interior of the Basilica of Birnau

The square in front of the basilica is as large as a football pitch and offers an unforgettable view of the captivating church and the romantic lake named Bodensee. What a gift it is to experience this!

The door of the baroque church stands open, and I step inside. The interior is a particular surprise. It is an embodiment of beauty through architecture, paintings, and sculptures. Looking up, I imagine myself in heaven. The ceiling paintings give me the feeling that I could ascend and look directly into the eyes of Mary, high above.

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Ceiling fresco in the Basilica at Birnau

After recovering from this, I proceed further into the basilica and reach the high altar. What splendour is to be seen here! The crowned statue of Our Lady is central to the basilica. Mary is seated and holds an apple in her right hand, of which some has already been eaten. Her Son sits on her left knee, looking at his Mother and holding a small cross in his left hand. This is beauty!

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Shrine of Grace in the Basilica at Birnau

With Mary in sight, it is praying and thanking Her that I have arrived here without having to overcome any obstacles. It is about taking in impressions to hold onto them for a long time in memory.

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The Way of the Cross in the Birnau Basilica

After this, I will further explore the basilica and my eyes will meet striking stations on the walls. Each stage of the Way of the Cross is painted and sculpted. High up in the basilica, two clocks hang from the ceiling and indicate the time in different ways. Our Lady is depicted several times on the walls. A separate painting shows Joseph holding the child Jesus.

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painting in the basilica at Birnau shows, among other things, Joseph with Child and Mary

Finally, I light candles for friends and as thanks for this memorable visit.

Environment

The shopping and university city of Konstanz lies on the opposite side of Lake Constance, and to visit this city by land it's a distance of 54 km. By boat, it is a considerably shorter route.

Ravensburg is located 39 km to the northeast, and to visit the city of Ulm, you need to travel 122 km north. To go to Freiburg im Breisgau, you need to travel 126 km in a north-westerly direction.

Posted: 15 May 2024

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